El Ghriba, an ancient synagogue on the island of Djerba about
500 km (300 miles) from Tunis, was packed with
mispallelim this year. Like every year thousands of
Jews, most of Tunisian descent, streamed to Djerba for Lag
B'Omer to search the lost past of the isle of chachmei
haTorah of 250 years ago.
Even some French reporters devoted articles to the Jewish
event. In the heart of Tunisia, a Muslim country, thousands
of Jews wearing yarmulkes and expressing nostalgia for the
past glories of their family patriarchs who were forced to
leave the island in exchange for bleak lives in the suburbs
of French cities and development towns in Israel, spend a
week celebrating.
Thousands of Jews visit the city of Arida, where the beis
knesses is located. Arced balconies and pillars surround
the courtyard, wear Tunisian flags wave. The names of
Djerba's rabbonim can be seen etched on a silver pyramid in
the middle of the courtyard. Israeli visitors said they're
taking advantage of the annual Lag B'Omer pilgrimage to
return to their birthplaces in search of their past and the
origins they were severed from during their childhood.
The swarms of visitors turn the streets into a walking
exhibition of Jewish-Tunisian folklore. The visitors sit on
the balcony, sharing legendary tales about the shul.
According to one of the legends, Jews fleeing the destruction
of the Second Temple by Nebuchadnezzar found a haven on the
island — which is mentioned by its Greek name in an
ancient Greek songbook — and built the shul. This
legend led to a revival of the shul as a Jewish site. Today
El Ghriba is fast becoming a tourist site.
"We feel safe here and come without fear thanks to the regime
of President Ben Ali," said a Jewish visitor from Paris named
Loussain. Part of the intent of the events is to draw praise
for the regime, which has been magnanimous toward Jews and
Israel. Praise for Ben Ali was heard throughout the week in
Djerba. The words, "Ben Ali has established democracy!" are
regularly heard in speeches.
Last month French Chief Rabbi Yosef Sitrouk met with Ben Ali
in his palace as his private guest during President Sarkozi's
visit to Tunis. "We've been waiting for and warmly welcome
the visitors to Djerba," Ben Ali told him. Ben Ali has been
harshly suppressing popular support for Islamists joining the
left-wing opposition to undermine him. Tunisians prefer his
pro-Western rule over a suppressive Islamic regime.
A few years ago Loussain chartered a plane to fly 180 friends
and relatives to Djerba to celebrate his son's bar mitzvah.
Event organizer Rene Trabelsi said it wasn't easy bringing so
many people to an Arab country. "Only to Tunisia was it
possible to bring such a large number of Jews. It's a land of
tolerance and freedom where religious freedom is preserved,"
he said. Iraq was once a large Jewish center, yet today Arabs
refuse to send their baby for heart surgery in Israel due to
their hatred.
But the gathering calls for heavy security. Armed, plain-
clothed policemen are posted around the hotel and beis
knesses. Peretz Trabelsi (Rene's father) rents a hotel
and provides kosher food for the 1,000 people lodged there.
He says 5,000 visitors came to the island this year.
Trabelsi, head of the Jewish community on the island, awaits
the day when direct flights will be available between Djerba
and Israel.
Jews are starting to return to the island. The Jewish
population has grown from 750 to 1050 in recent years.
Israeli visitors say Djerba looks like Israel did 50 years
ago. An Israeli from Be'er Sheva said the children recite the
prayers according to Nusach Djerba and study Torah —
things Jews of Djerban descent living in Be'er Sheva may have
lost.
The gap between the Jews of Djerba and the influx of Jewish
visitors is readily apparent in their attire and modesty. In
Djerba most of the Jews are observant, wearing yarmulkes in
the street without fear.
The Arabs also take part in the festivities from the
sidelines. Still, any IDF action in Gaza can raise tensions
in the street between Arabs and Jews. An unfortunate Jewish
woman who was forced to marry an Arab says her husband and
children punish her "every time something serious happens in
Palestine."
