A diary of one of the participants in the party of hundreds
of rabbonim, mashgichim and avreichim who went
to Lithuania this past summer. One of the main goals was to
dedicate a new gravestone for HaRav Yisroel Salanter,
ztvk"l. These were the events along the way . . .
Hashem merited me to be a part of the journey of rabbonon
Roshei Hayeshivos vehaMashgichim to put up a matzeivoh
on the grave of Maran HaGaon Yisroel of Salant, zt"l,
and to visit the graves of Rabboseinu Shebelita. And even
though it is difficult and virtually impossible to describe
the events and the experience itself, I will try to write a
bit, besiyata deShmaya.
In the morning after having left Minsk on our way to Volozhin
we noticed that the police car accompanying us stopped on the
side of the road, making all passing vehicles stop too. Some
of them even drove to the side of the road to let our buses
pass.
The talmid chochom sitting next to me, who was born in
Russia, is amazed at this spectacle. He tells me that as a
child of six he was sent by his father to the melamed
to learn Torah. His parents warned him to always take a good
look to his left and right to make sure that no one could see
him going in or out. At the time he did not understand the
significance of this, but when he grew up he realized that the
Communists were persecuting the Jews and had banned Torah
studies. And now rabbonim were coming on a visit and the local
politicians were so excited about it that they were willing to
shut down the traffic in the middle of town for their sake.
"How fortunate I am to be able to witness this. Can there be a
greater revenge against Communism?"
As we approach Volozhin the excitement builds up. Here stood
the mother of yeshivos, where learning took place around the
clock. Here the greatest roshei yeshivos pored over
their gemoras. From the outside, the building still
looks magnificent but on the inside it is totally destroyed.
We expect the walls to relate what they have witnessed: that
they should describe the shiurim of the Netziv and his
grandson R' Chaim Soloveitchik; or the chavrusa between
the bochurim Shimon Shkop and Chaim Ozer Grodzensky. We
wait to hear accounts of the omol haTorah which they
have witnessed, of the tikkun chatzos and of the tears
shed by the Netziv when the yeshiva closed down. But all we
hear is silence.
When it was suggested that the yeshiva be transferred from
Volozhin to Vilna because of lack of space, the Netziv opposed
this saying, "We can move the Yeshiva, but we can't take with
us the spider's webs, which have become sanctified with the
kedushas haTorah of this place."
Recollecting this saying makes us feel a special longing for
this holy building.
For the first time since the yeshiva was closed down a
shiur takes place in it. Everyone listens attentively
to HaRav Yisroel Eliyohu Weintraub, who speaks about HaRav
Chaim Volozhiner's contribution to the Torah world (see
below). He stands not far from where the Oron Hakodesh
stood once (we can tell because on the outside walls one can
still see where the Oron Hakodesh was). Rav Chaim's
apartment is downstairs, underneath the yeshiva. At nighttime
it was dark here. How many chidushei Torah were written
here by candlelight?
We next went to Volozhin cemetery on foot, passing the houses
of the little town on the way. It was a shocking sight. Of all
the towns we were to visit over the next few days, only
Volozhin still looked the way it always did. It seemed as if
nothing had changed there over the last two hundred years. No
one there had heard about running water in private houses:
their water came from an old well on the outskirts of the
town.
One of the rabbonim mentioned the gemora in Avoda
Zora (2b) that in the Time to Come the non-Jews will claim
that they built bridges and towns for the Jews so that they
could study Torah and Hakodosh Boruch Hu will tell
them: "If it is true that you built bridges for the sake of
those who studied Torah, you should have built them in
Volozhin or Slobodka." Perhaps for this reason this town
remained totally unchanged and undeveloped.
We reach the beis hachaim and the graves of HaRav Chaim
Volozhiner and his son HaRav Itzele. A great his'orerus
and tremendous tefillos take place here. HaRav Yitzchok
Grodzensky reads out Tehillim, perek by perek.
After private prayers everybody davens for the
klal and the difficult situation of Am Yisroel
during this period. Mention is made at this location of what
the Netziv told HaRav Shimon Shkop when the latter asked him
to explain a certain Rashbam in Bovo Basra: "Do you
know how many heartfelt tefillos I said at HaRav
Chaim's grave to understand this Rashbam?"
HaRav Shimon internalized the message of these words, and they
accompanied him throughout his life as a model of ahavas
haTorah.
In the small cemetery of Volozhin many gravestones remain in
their original locations. Others, on the other hand, are
totally covered with greenery. On our way out we read some of
the gravestones and suddenly notice one with some familiar
names on it: "Here lies our dear father, an upright man, Rav
Moshe Dovid, the son of Rav Michoel Yehuda Lefkovitch
z"l."
We were told that this was the father of Rav Michel Yehuda
Lefkovitch, the rosh yeshiva of Ponevezh Letzi'irim,
who was born in Volozhin. (Incidentally, HaRav Mishkovsky
related that there was another bochur in Chevron
Yeshiva whom someone once called "the Volozhiner." HaRav
Simcha Zissel Broida's zt"l response to this was that
there was only one Volozhiner in Chevron: R' Michel Yehuda
Lefkovitch shlita.)
As we left Volozhin it started to rain. Upon our arrival we
had wept for what was and is no more. With our departure the
walls of the Yeshiva cried, since they had thought for a
moment that perhaps the days of glory had returned.
Radin
Next we make our way to Radin, which is about two hours away.
During the journey from Volozhin to Radin our hearts are full
of yearning. Traveling to Radin used to be an obligatory
experience in the previous generation. Radin is not some
geographical location: one has to make the requisite emotional
preparations for such a visit.
HaRav Yisroel Marmarosh, the head of Breslav Kollel, gives a
marvelous shiur on Mishna Berurah. This is
followed by a shiur on the Chofetz Chaim by HaRav Moshe
Mordechai Karp, rov in Kiryat Sefer. In his introductory
comments he explains that the Chofetz Chaim, in compiling his
book, was following the example of HaRav Chaim Volozhiner who
was told by the Vilna Gaon that he would offer all the prayers
he had ever uttered for the sake of one novel din
derived from the gemora. That was why the Chofetz Chaim
had created a comprehensive Shulchan Oruch on the laws
of loshon hora, clarifying all the sugyas in the
gemora and rishonim.
His voice broke several times during the course of the
shiur. After all, it was no small matter to travel on
the way from Volozhin, the mother of yeshivos, to Radin, the
home and resting place of the Chofetz Chaim. Until just a
generation ago, the hearts and minds of the whole Jewish world
were turned towards this small town and the hut with its
illustrious inhabitant.
We arrive in Radin, which used to have a Jewish majority. The
whole town is just one big road. The yeshiva building stands
out in its beauty from the monotonous array of single-story
wooden huts. However, what greeted us on the inside was heart-
rending. The yeshiva building has been divided up into two
halls and is used by the municipal theater. This holy and
awesome place, in which the Chossid Shebekehuno poured
out his heart to his Maker, in which HaRav Naftoli Trop
zt"l gave his penetrating shiurim, had become
the home for their detestable culture!
As if on their own we heard in our minds those words we had
recited just a day before at the end of the Kinos on
Tisha B'Av: "Alei Armon asheir nutash . . . ve'al bi'as
mechorfei Keil . . . Bewail the abandoned palace and its
occupation by blasphemers . . . Bewail its sounds of music and
dance, which have been silenced in its city, and the
Vaad (the lishkas hagozis) which lies desolate .
. . " Only its Sanhedrin has not been abolished. What was
destroyed here was revitalized somewhere else. "For it shall
not be forgotten from his seed."
We davened mincha inside the two Yeshiva halls. This
was the first opportunity for such a tefilloh since the
terrible Churban. After davening a shiur
was given in the Yeshiva hall by HaRav Pesach Segal, the son
of HaRav Yehuda Zeev Segal zt"l, who was devoted in his
lifetime to the study and dissemination of the Chofetz Chaim.
The next speaker was HaRav Uri Weissblum, the mashgiach
of Nachalas Haleviyim Yeshiva in Haifa (see below).
After a short rest in the yeshiva courtyard, some of the group
went to see the Chofetz Chaim's house which is a short
distance away from the Yeshiva. The house of the rosh
yeshiva, HaRav Moshe Landinsky zt"l is in the
Yeshiva courtyard itself. As we look at the Yeshiva building
somebody mentions that HaRav Zalman Rotberg writes in his
introduction to Mishnas Tuvia on Bovo Basra that
when this building was under construction the Chofetz Chaim
requested that all the windows should be higher than the
height of a person so that you could not see what was
happening outside from inside the beis hamedrash and
the talmidim would remain undisturbed. Here we could
see this in reality.
A Russian-speaking member of the group asked the non-Jewish
head of the theater what had happened to the books and
furniture which used to be inside the building. She replied
that she heard from her father that at the time of the
Churban, the non-Jews had taken all the furniture,
seforim and sifrei Torah out of the building,
and made a big fire in order to give vent to their wrath
against the Jews. It was terrible to hear about this.
From there we proceeded to the cemetery which is several
hundred meters removed from the last building of the town.
Hardly anything remains of the cemetery, except a gravestone
commemorating a communal burial site: "Here lie the 2130 holy
martyrs of Radin and Eishishok." This was a physical reminder
of the destruction of European Jewry. There are no other
gravestones in the cemetery, since the Lithuanians used them
to build a fence. But there is a renovated gravestone on top
of the Chofetz Chaim's burial place.
Who could possibly recount and number the impassioned prayers
offered by the Chofetz Chaim during his lifetime, especially
the prayers for Klal Yisroel, since the Chofetz Chaim
was devoted throughout his life to the klal? Let him
act over there as he did here, let him beseech Hashem to save
His nation from the difficult spiritual and physical situation
in which it finds itself!
As in Volozhin, the area is full of curious onlookers from the
town. Maybe because it has been so many years since they saw
such a large group of Jews looking as they did "then." Perhaps
they suspect that we have come to reclaim property.
Then there was a surprise phone call from Yerushalayim. At the
other end was HaRav Mordechai Zukerman, one of the last
surviving talmidim of the Chofetz Chaim and of the Kelm
Talmud Torah. Everybody crowds around the transmitters-cum-
loudspeakers to hear him speak.
He asked that the Chofetz Chaim who awaited the coming of
Moshiach all his life should arouse the mercy of Heaven from
underneath the Kisei Hakovod, that Hashem should send
Moshiach in this difficult period when the Jewish nation is in
such need of mercy. Holy Rebbi, create a commotion! It is high
time for the great yeshu'oh for Klal Yisroel!
Then he suddenly burst out crying.
End of Part I