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Home and Family
Tricking the Taste Buds
by Dr. Reuven Bruner

The fight against heart disease and the battle of the bulge for athletes and non-athletes alike has spurred the food industry to arm itself with new ordinance: fat replacements and fat substitutes. By mimicking the functions of fats and oils as ingredients in foods, these new products replace the real thing and fool your mouth into believing you are getting a high-fat treat. But in fact there is little to no fat in these foods.

Rather than propose that people consume a diet devoid of taste and texture, the manufacturers of high fat foods hope to win "fat lovers" over with fake fat alternatives. But beware -- these new formulations should not be considered a cure-all for fat cravings. According to manufacturers of the fat replacements and substitutes, food scientists have found a way to replace fats by putting everyday ingredients through a unique combination of steps that modify their properties and make them feel and taste like fat in food.

Milk and egg proteins, skim milk, water and/or a variety of carbohydrates can be heated, acidified and blended to resemble fat in all ways -- except two very important ones: They do not have deleterious effects on our arteries, and they have fewer calories.

One replacement is polydextrose -- a partially absorbable starch polymer that supplies about 1 calorie per gram (vs. 9 calories per gram from fat) and is used in frozen desserts, puddings and cake frostings. Maltodextrin, a modified starch used to replace fat in margarines and salad dressings, contains 4 calories per gram.

Other fat replacements are used in processed cheese products and fat-free baked goods. Both polydextrose and maltodextrin are approved by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA). People digest the processed fat replacements just as they do the ingredients in their unprocessed, natural form.

The other type of fat alternative that can be part of a heart-healthy diet is a fat substitute. Whereas a fat replacement is a mix of different ingredients blended together, a fat substitute is a single, unique ingredient. Another difference is that a substitute is better for dieters because it not only has fewer calories than fat, it generally has fewer calories than fat replacement. Substitutes are produced by two different methods and come in two forms, but only one has been approved by the FDA for use in foods.

The only product currently on the market is Simplesse, a processed protein that is created by heating and blending milk or egg-white proteins into mist-like particles. This process creates the illusion of the presence of fat by imparting a sense of creaminess to the tongue. The changes in the proteins caused by this kind of processing are similar to those that occur when eggs and milk are cooked -- so that you digest and absorb Simplesse similarly to the original unprocessed proteins. Depending on the formulation of Simplesse, it has 1-2 calories per gram. Its greatest limitation is that it cannot be heated or it will lose its desirable properties. Therefore, it is ideal only for cold products such as sour cream, ice cream, yogurt, dips, cheese products, salad dressings, mayonnaise, margarine and butter spreads.

The other fat substitute, olestra is a sucrose polyester, a synthetic combination of sucrose (sugar) and fatty acids. Because olestra is formulated so that your body can't digest or absorb it, it is non-caloric. According to its manufacturer, olestra can completely substitute for fats and oils in foods without diminishing the flavor. It has the same cooking properties as fats and oils and can be used in products such as shortenings, oils, margarines and also for ice creams and other dessert and snacks. Safety and product testing of olestra is still continuing and FDA approval for its use in foods is pending.

FDA approved or not, fat replacers and fat substitutes are being promoted by the food industry as the final solution to fight against fat. But nutritionists are wary. Artificial sweeteners were introduced by manufacturers using a similar strategy: by replacing the sugar in their diets with sweet substitutes, Americans could decrease their calorie intake and lose weight. But while people may try to limit their calories by eating foods with artificial sugar, many make up for the decreased calorie content by eating twice as much or adding more foods to their diet than they would have, had they eaten the naturally sweetened food.

In fact, the prevalence of obesity in the U.S.A. and Israel has dramatically increased; not decreased. The verdict is still not in on the effects of fat replacements and substitutes on our blood cholesterol levels and our waistlines. But nutritionists fear that, as with artificial sugars, people will compensate for the fat loss in some other deleterious way.

Another concern is that some people may get so carried away with eating fat and sugar-free foods, that these foods will replace the more nutrient-dense and important fruits, vegetables and grains needed for a healthy diet. The key to enjoying the new fat-free products is to include them in your diet using the old nutrition maxim -- with moderation. Remember that even though the food may be fat-free, it is not necessarily calorie-free. And while you are indulging your tastes, don't forget to indulge your body's needs for healthy nutrients as well. So remember: be alive as long as You live and do it the BRUNER METHOD WAY!

(c) 2001 Dr. Reuven Bruner. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized duplication or translation is prohibited without prior consent.

Dr. Reuven Bruner, Ph.D. Health/Fitness/ Nutrition & Total Lifestyle Consultant Fitness of Body & Mind ' (02) 652-7684; (052) 865821 Fax: (02) 652-7227 Email: dr_bruner@hotmail.com

 

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