Every Jewish child knows the story of R' Shimon bar Yochai
and his son, R' Elozor. The story is recounted in Talmud
Bavli, Shabbos 33b [reminiscent of the 33 of Lag B'Omer].
Escaping from the Romans, they hid in a cave at Pekiin. A
carob tree miraculously emerged from the ground to provide
fruit for nourishment, while a spring brought forth water to
quench their thirst. There they composed the Zohar
Hakodosh.
What could be more exciting for children than to visit the
cave and the carob tree and drink from the spring water that
these tzaddikim of yore drank from?
This is possible in the Western Galilee town of Pekiin. A
fascinating small village, today Pekiin is home to mostly
Druze, a minority of Greek Orthodox Arabs, still fewer Moslem
Arabs and a few Jews. Known in Arabic as El Bukeia, meaning
`little valley' [bik'a], the town is also called
Bekiin, since Arabic lacks the sound `P'.
The identification of modern day Pekiin as that of the
ancient one is complicated and, at best, precarious. In all
likehood, the one accepted as Pekiin seems to fit the
description.
Do not confuse Bukeia/ Bekiin/ Pekiin with the new Jewish
settlement of Pekiin Hachadasha, to be found five kilometers
north of Pekiin. Pekiin HaChadasha is an agricultural
settlement, a moshav, founded in 1955 by immigrants from
North Africa.
The most scenic route to Pekiin is the approach from the
South. Turn left off the Acco-Tsefas road (#85) at the Arab
village of Rama. A road to the left makes a steep ascent to
Mitzpe Hod (Hod lookout point), recognizable by the guard
rails. Here you can see a magnificent view of the Beit
Hakerem Valley, considered to be the dividing point between
the Upper and Lower Galil. Another four miles of wild
mountain scenery brings us to the town of Pekiin.
There is an alternate approach; from the North. Head west
from Tsefas on the Tsefas-Nahariya road (#89) past Meiron and
Sassa to the Hosen Junction (Road # 864). Turn left and drive
for a few minutes past Moshav Hosen, past Pekiin Hachadasha
to Pekiin.
According to one theory, Pekiin is the only place in Eretz
Yisroel with an unbroken record of Jewish occupation since
the period of Bayis Sheini. It is apparently
identified with the village Beka, mentioned in the writings
of Josephus, whose occupants were engaged in growing
pka'os, bulbs or cocoons, of silk worms. The Zeinati
family, indeed, traces its lineage this far back.
Although only the elderly Margalit Zeinati remains from the
Zeinati family, a couple of young Jewish families have moved
in during the last couple of years, eager to renew the Jewish
presence in Pekiin. Purchasing homes formerly owned by Jews,
they are trying to set up a kollel there.
It seems like the word `picturesque' must have been invented
for the town Pekiin. Meander through its crooked lanes
boasting two storey homes with light blue entranceways and
let its enchantment filter in.
The synagogue is located in the center of the town. Drive
into the main street and ask -- or look -- for a painting of
a menora on the wall to direct you to the synagogue.
The keys to the synagogue are obtainable at the Zeinati home
as well as by asking around for Asher, one of the new Jewish
inhabitants. If you are lucky enough to find him, he will
show you around the synagogue as well as direct you to the
square with the spring and show you the steep way up to the
cave of Rashbi.
The synagogue was restored in 1873, as recorded in the Hebrew
inscription above its entrance. One can see two carved stones
lying sideways that were allegedly brought from Jerusalem.
Legend has it that when the Beis Hamikdosh was
destroyed, the stones fell on their side as a sign of
mourning. One can see the oron kodesh carved in stone,
as well as a carving of a seven-branched menora,
flanked by a lulov and esrog on one side, and a
shofar on the right. These carvings are believed to be
from the second or third century.
A spring flowing in the center of Pekiin is thought to be the
spring that miraculously sprung up for Rashi and his son, R'
Elozor. Today it is the main source of water for the local
inhabitants, called Ein Elbalach. Bring along some empty
bottles to fill from the spring, to drink its cool, clean
natural water, and perhaps to take home. Who knows what
segulos it contains, if it sustained Rashbi and his
son?
A steep, few minutes walk from the spring will take you up
the slope of the mount to the Cave of R' Shimon bar Yochai.
Be sure to watch your children carefully at the cave site:
the fencing is a bit inadequate. Here you can see an ancient
carob tree, perhaps the very one that sustained R' Shimon and
R' Elozor for thirteen years, while they were writing the
Zohar. While the the cave is quite small, we are told that at
the time of R' Shimon, it stretched all the way to Meiron. An
earthquake caused it to close up, so the story goes.
