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27 Tammuz 5765 - August 3, 2005 | Mordecai Plaut, director Published Weekly
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Home and Family

Babe Among the Ruins
by Chedva Ofek

Part I

Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan, lies at the heart of a savanna at a height of 480 meters. Two and a half million people live there, among them a few Jews and Russians. In April 1966, while Uzbekistan was still under Soviet rule, a terrible earthquake devastated the city. In the blink of an eye, 100,000 people were left homeless. Tens of thousands of builders arrived from all over the Soviet Union and began rebuilding what had become one of the country's most important cities.

I was born on the 26th of Nissan, 5726 (1966) in Tashkent, a few days before the earthquake. I was my young parents' second daughter. They were married in Samarkent and lived in my father's parents' house, as was the custom then. Their parents supported them and my paternal grandmother helped to raise my older sister.

Before the birth, my mother suffered from frequent pains and a complicated birth was expected. She wanted to be in the skilled hands of professional doctors. In Uzbekistan forty years ago, home births with a midwife were still the norm but my mother decided to go to her parents' house in Tashkent where there was an excellent hospital, in spite of the fact that my grandmother, along with my father, offered to hire a specialist female doctor to come to the house. She wanted to spare my weak mother the exhausting trip by train to Tashkent with a two-and-a-half-year-old child. At that time, my father wasn't able to accompany her because my mother intended to be hospitalized and he had to remain in Tashkent and help support his parents.

My young energetic father worked dozens of dunams of productive cotton fields. Uzbekistan was and is the third largest producer of cotton in the world and in Samarkent many people make a living at this profitable branch of farming. This type of work is difficult and needs to be closely monitored.

Despite the difficulty, my mother undertook the journey from Samarkent to Buchara and from there to Tashkent. My whiney and demanding sister made it very difficult for my mother. The whole way, my mother promised her, "Soon, we'll get to Savta and you'll get presents and sweets." And she couldn't imagine that my sister's future at her grandmother's wouldn't be so rosy.

Because of the strain of the trip, it seemed, as soon as she arrived at her parents', she went into labor and was immediately rushed to the hospital and wasn't able to rest at her parents' home for a month as planned. This hospitalization had a very negative effect on my older sister: In one go, she was separated from the one person she knew and who protected her, but she hadn't yet bonded with anyone else.

Grandmother, of course, made supreme efforts to shower her with affection and win her trust but my sister stubbornly rejected her efforts. Grandfather and both mother's younger brothers tried to amuse the toddler and even made her airplanes from wood but they were disappointed. Nothing helped. The little one screamed for hours upon hours, refused to eat and rebelled against everyone.

In spite of her fears, and although by Caesarean birth, my mother gave birth to a healthy and whole little girl. The fear for my safety passed. At the beginning, my grandmother didn't tell my mother how my sister was faring so that she wouldn't worry. The reality, unfortunately, wasn't joyful at all. Within two days, my sister had developed a high fever which they couldn't bring down. The doctor gave her a thorough examination and couldn't find any symptom of the strange disease.

My aunt, her older sister who lived in Moscow, came to my grandmother's rescue. My grandmother had sent her a letter earlier where she explained about having to host us in the coming weeks. On a train to Uzbekistan that left Moscow and passed through Samara, along Kazachstan until Tashkent, a trip that took 56 hours, my aunt arrived at my grandmother's home. Famous for her "natural remedies" that she concocted herself, she immediately prepared compresses of lemon juice diluted in vinegar, mixed with crushed garlic and with other spices known to evaporate fever. The compresses were changed frequently on the burning forehead of the little girl but nothing helped. My sister lay like a lifeless doll, burning up, passive and helpless. Worry gnawed at my grandmother and having no choice, she traveled to the hospital and cried to my mother, "Please come home immediately and save your daughter!"

The request seemed impossible to fulfill because her stay in hospital wasn't complete. With a racing heart, my mother asked the head nurse to release her.

"No way! Under no circumstances! No!" The nurse was adamant and reminded my mother of the medical procedures then. After a regular birth, the mother is released after 10 days; a woman after an operation is released only after 15. "And you've only been recovering eight days and are so weak and sick. There is no way I will release you early," she stated.

With tears in her eyes, my mother explained about my sister's critical condition, and bribing her with a significant sum — a purse bursting with cash, she reached a compromise. Because it was Sunday, the Sabbath in Uzbekistan which meant the presence of fewer doctors and staff in the hospital, she was told to run away with me, the baby, without anyone knowing, and to return the next Monday in time for doctors' rounds. That would keep things uncomplicated. My mother wrapped me in a green blanket and when the nurse gave her a sign, she escaped from the hospital without documents of any kind.

When my mother arrived at my grandmother's house, the air was thick with tension. Everyone was occupied with my two-year- old sister who had fainted. No one came to greet us in the manner that one greeted a new arrival in Buchara, with sweets, and the oven which would on Sunday be baking sesame bread was still.

My mother left me and immediately went to take care of my sister. It seemed I was a placid child and allowed her to leave me. Grandmother put us in the only available space, a back balcony of the house on mattresses. It was a dark and narrow place which later proved to be my saving grace.

Uzbekistan, the most populated country in Central Asia with 26 million people, was also the poorest among the republics of the former Soviet Union. Its population consisted mainly of farmers and agriculturalists. Tashkent, the capital, in the older part was built as a maze of narrow, dusty alleyways with low houses made out of mud blocks. Then it was the custom to have one big room where the entire family lived. Living in my Grandmother's house, also, was my 90-year-old great-grandmother.

On the back balcony of the house, a fireplace of stone called a Bazaka spread a pleasant warmth without burning anyone who touched it. So it was a nice niche for us. The weather at the time I was born was pleasant and suited for sleeping on the balcony. Springtime (April to June), in Uzbekistan is the optimal time weather-wise. In April, the desert briefly blooms. That's the blessed harvest season when the market stalls groan under the weight of fresh fruits and vegetables. At other times of the year, the weather is unpredictable and in the mountains, it's liable to snow.

My mother was happy to sleep on the balcony. The two wide mattresses that were placed on the floor were enough for the three of us. Mother slept in the middle, my older sister she held closely to her right and I was to her left, near the dormant stove. After an wearing day, my mother fell asleep, exhausted, on the mattress, with her heart calm as she lay beside her two small daughters.

At four in the morning, a loud noise shook the walls of the house. My mother awoke, terrified. A blinding light filled the room and yellow-red tongues danced in front of her eyes. She was sure that a bloody war had broken out or that her heart was exploding from a volcano.

But it was a terrible earthquake. With maternal instinct, she grabbed my sister in her arms and ran out of the balcony to the street. My experienced grandmother understood that these were the first tremors of an earthquake (p waves) which were relatively weak, prefacing the stronger, destructive waves, and hysterically tried to clear the house while helping my ailing great-grandmother. My mother's younger brothers urged Grandfather to get out of the apartment that would collapse any minute. And only, I, the baby was forgotten.

[Final part next week]

 

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