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17 Cheshvan 5764 - November 12, 2003 | Mordecai Plaut, director Published Weekly
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Home and Family


Eretz Yisroel: First Year, First Impressions
by Frumma Grossman

These were some of my first impressions, the first year of aliya, of living in Israel. Nine years later, they still ring true.

This is HOME and when I try to figure out why this feels like home, since I frequently get lost and nothing looks as it did in Canada -- logic does not fully explain it. It IS home.

There are so many new sights and exciting things to see, but not touristy ones like museums. I mean, everyday delights that stir my senses on each and every walk; `ordinary' sights like palms and olive trees, and incredible fruit trees, scents of ambrosia that continually follow me.

Religious areas with a sea of black -- men in suits and hats; older children overseeing younger ones so competently, willingly and lovingly (I rarely see siblings fight.) Schools with boys learning Torah by singing loudly and joyously, or children in schoolyards playing delightedly, cooperatively.

Where everything is written in Hebrew and Russian, infreqently in English, with most people speaking Hebrew. Yet I still find enough people who know some English or Yiddish to help me and converse with me. Nine years later and still struggling to learn Hebrew! When I do make an attempt, the listener usually switches to English rather than hear such a tortuous rendition of such a beautiful, melodious language.

People all around me who live modestly -- certainly far below the usual Canadian lifestyle -- yet are happy and don't seem to know that they ought to be feeling worried or deprived.

People so willing to help out with whatever, be it names of contacts for jobs, explanations about how the `system' works, or directions, even if they are busy themselves with their own work; they still have time to help others. People filled with the goodness of life.

Little boys standing on the corner, waiting to be crossed. And strangers offering to do so, even though they are a distance away and headed in the opposite direction.

Houses made only of Jerusalem stone and cement, rather than the brick or wood I am used to or aluminum siding.

Grocery stores where if I can't read the name of the item, or the food is one I am not familiar with, or the ingredients are written in Hebrew only, someone nearby is always willing to explain.

Apartments which are much smaller than ours in Canada, often with many more people living in them, yet everything that is needed fits in, somehow.

Bathrooms usually consisting of one small room with a toilet and a separate room with sink, tub and shower -- a `telephone receiver' that one must hold in one hand while washing in the other, probably so designed to save water.

Heavy traffic with the continual blare of horns in downtown Jerusalem.

Soldiers everywhere as they travel either on or off duty, with their rifles held in hand. Soldiers occasionally accompanying buses. Some of our realities.

Every religious home with at least one wall of Torah books.

Buses equipped with radios or cassette players. Drivers who turn up the volume for every newscast for the benefit of the passengers, or drivers with kipot tuned into chareidi music or Torah tapes. The Israeli passion of being well informed by the media, without everyone being current, since survival may depend on knowing...

Seeing stray wild cats who live on garbage. They are tolerated by Israelis since they perform a wonderful service of controlling the rodent population. Rarely are cats home pets here. No dogs whatsoever in chareidi neighborhoods, or any pets, for that matter.

Watching the amount of water one uses since each apartment has its own water meter and one is charged for usage.

The high price of clothing, sometimes three times what I paid in Canada -- [how about visiting clothing gemachs and buying at 5% of what you paid there?] yet the beautiful clothes [most] religious women wear while still dressed attractively and modestly.

Everyone talking to everyone else on buses, in lines -- everywhere. At the bank, in the supermarket, in the shuk -- especially on Fridays! Anywhere. They may not even be talking to each other but simply offering unsolicited advice to pure strangers. Children are usually the object of such advice. A young mother may enter a bus with a young child. Is the child dressed warmly enough? Too warmly? Is she kvetching because she needs a drink? When I questioned a passenger about this, she replied that since we are all one big family, it is appropriate to care about what everyone is doing and help them out with advice, especially if they seem young and inexperienced.

The frequent sirens of ambulances and police cars. Loudspeakers mounted on cabs announcing imminent and/or eminent funerals, seasonal sales, or chizuk rallies. Even calling people to vote.

Sidewalks made of stone squares, often with some missing or broken. Sand and seashells imbedded in these spots (not in inland Jerusalem, but in coastal cities like Bnei Brak). Sand everywhere -- at construction sites, rubble piles, outside one's house. Sand everywhere. Also so much building and renovation going on.

Children having few toys and still being able to amuse themselves.

The many beggars on the streets, especially in high pedestrian-traffic areas, poor neighborhoods and in tourist areas. There is always someone less fortunate to be helped out.

Pre-Shabbos excitement as everyone, religious or not, is out buying challos, cakes, garinim (sunflower and pumpkin seeds). Long lines at bakeries in Meah Shearim, at the many florists, or last minute groceries. All for Shabbos!

Everyone wishing everyone else "Shabbat Shalom" on Friday and Shabbos, and talking about how they spent Shabbos, and greeting friends with "Shavua tov" all day Sunday. Anyone asking for information or simply chatting on the phone from Thursday till Friday candlelighting will end off the conversation with a "Shabbat Shalom," religious or not.

Guards in all public places checking bags going in, not so concerned about shoplifting as with security.

Heimishe shops selling only one type of item: fruits and vegetables; non-perishable groceries; drugstores with only drugs, hardware, small health food stores, book stores [a parsha onto itself!], baby clothes, sewing notions, school supplies. They are often bustling with people in a small space, asking prices, discussing the merchandise, talking to an incidental shopmate about the product. These sights and sounds remind me of growing up near St. Lawrence St. in Montreal. But progress is catching up to Israeli society, with supermarket chains that sell everything, as in Canada, and shopping malls, and even a Canadian-style pharmacy.

A country where everyone knows what is happening politically and has much to say about it. Where criticism of everything pertaining to government is common, loud and knowledgeable as well. Like one big family.

Before I came here, I was told by so many people about all the difficulties of living in Israel. Since I knew I wanted living here to be a positive experience, I made the decision to see differences rather than difficulties. This attitude has filled the transition with excitement and anticipation, and has been the difference between learning to live here like an Israeli or remaining an outsider. If I wanted it to be just like Canada, why come here, altogether?

I love these differences!

 

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