Midrash Beit Zilkah still stands, though it has certainly seen better days.
Rabbi Yitzhak Carmeli, researcher of Diaspora Jewry, presents to Yated Ne'eman recent photos of Iraqi Jewry, including the Torah Street.
Muhammad, a professional Iraqi photographer with whom Yitzhak maintains close contact, went forth especially to the alleys of Baghdad in order to document the remaining Jewish ruins, at considerable personal risk. The recent documentation which he sent negate the accepted stand that Jewish sites in Iraq were almost totally destroyed. Witness: there still exists the street named "Torah Street".
Within that same typical Baghdad street there rose up the mother of Iraqi yeshivos, "Midrash Beit Zilkah" which was headed by HaRav Abdallah Somech, author of "Zivhei Tzedek".
The sign on Torah Street is clearly seen.
Torah Street is located in the Dar el Yahud neighborhood, which was one of the most congested ones north of the Dig'le River, also known as the Chidekel, which traverses the Iraqi capital. It now consists of derelict homes, abandoned shops and a jumble of narrow alleyways.
Many Jews lived here until Israeli statehood, when they all fled to Israel. Tens of batei Knesset were active here, the prime one being Yeshivat Beit Zilkah, a yeshiva which illuminated the entire East. From here emerged Torah and Halacha not only to Baghdad and Iraq but also to the entire Middle East. Great Babylonian Torah scholars of the latter generations sprouted here, including the Ben Ish Chai, HaRav Yehuda Fetaya, HaRav Yitzhak Kadouri, HaRav Salman Mutzafi and many, many more.
Rabbi Yitzhak Carmeli tells Yated Ne'eman that when he first asked Muhammad to go and document the Jewish quarter, he demurred. "This is a difficult request now," he apologized.
"But it is very important to me," said Carmeli. "The world deserves to know that you Iraqis did not totally demolish the remnants of the Jewish community. See, even the Emirates have benefited!"
Muhammad was convinced and said, "How I wish that one day we will be like Dubai and that all the Jews will come to visit Baghdad."
"And then the photos arrived. I couldn't believe my eyes. The legendary Beit Zilkah is still standing erect. Its decorative, sculpted facade with its iron ringer and stone tigers are there unharmed, as if only yesterday crafted, as if awaiting someone to open the gate for the lions of Torah of the East to enter!"
At the beginning of the street, under the yeshiva building, there is a large sign, stating "Torah Street". No one has touched it to this day, nor the yeshiva, which stands deserted, but well preserved.
Full of Jewish memories...
